Sennen Cove to Lamorna - Monday 15th April 2013
Path Facts - Length: 12.1 miles, Ascent: 3071 feet
Really good full veg breakfast at the Old Success Inn before heading off at 9.15 am for an above averagely tough day. Land's End was only just over a mile away and although there's clearly a lot of tourist tack there it's still a major landmark on the walk so we were looking forward to it.
The area of tourist tack is actually pretty contained and when you're walking you can enjoy the wild coastline either side of it easily without being too bothered by the commercial aspect. We arrived there about 10 am about the same as the first coach loads. It really isn't the same arriving at these places without any hardship. I think you appreciate it a lot more when you feel like you've earned it.
Anyway, we had a rather more extended look around the tack shops than was entirely agreeable due to yours truly being set upon having the obligatory tourist trap, overpriced Land's End sign photo done by the photographer there. I was in two minds as it is a bit of a rip off for what it is and the photo quality was ok but not outstanding. It ended up costing £17 for two 9"x 6" photos so £8.50 each for which the photographer also takes a couple of digital photos on your own camera. 257 miles down, 373 miles to go. See below:
Left Land's End past the children's farm...
...then back on track for some great rugged coastline that followed. You soon lose the coach trippers after a short walk.
Today was pretty bright but cold. We arrived at the Coast Watch at Gwennap Head where their info said 9 degrees C and 16 mph wind speed.
You can even get a graph of the day in question from the Coast Watch website which I checked later.
Gwennap Head is also round about the transition to the South Coast. In a short space there is a reorientation which feels like a weird transition. From now on, the sun will rise in front of us and sink behind us. And we should hopefully have the wind mostly behind us all the way to Poole!
There are daymarks just beyond the Coast Watch station that show sailors the position of the Runnel Stone, an infamous wreck maker about a mile South of Gwennap Head. Of course, you might prefer the alternative story that the daymarks are really the home of the lesser known North Korean community in West Country, home of Kim-Jong-Arrr and his uncle Kim-Jong-Ilfracombe. Either way, using photography magic, you can amusingly make one appear on your head.
Err, back to the path. Stopped at wee tea shack at Porthgwara (say with Aussie accent for best effect). This was probably about midday.
Passed the Minack Theatre then down into Porthcurno for lunch.
Good cake, bad panini.
The local seagull deterrent is particularly effective.
There's a fairly wild and tough stretch of path between Porthcurno and Lamorna. One never ending staircase accounted for a fair amount of the 3k+ ascent today.
Penberth is nice and unspoilt.
This is the lighthouse at Tater-du.
Arrived at Lamorna just gone 5pm, probably 2 minutes after the cafe closed. We had mixed reviews about the cafe and Lamorna Wink, the only pub. We ended up going to neither.
The B&B was a fair trudge out of Lamorna up the side of the valley and took more route finding skills than we're used to. But Tregurnow Farmhouse was a really nice place to stay. Mostly due to being knackered and it being an extended trudge back to the Wink, we requested some sandwiches from Tregurnow who responded with a hearty selection with cake and what have you.
Info:
Accommodation – Tregurnow Farmhouse
Location ** A bit off the path but nothing else in Lamorna
Room ***** top notch
Facilities ****
Noise ***** if it wasn't for Andy ;-)
Food ****
Ambience ****
Price ** £85 for the room
http://www.lamorna.biz/weare.htm
Food – Tregurnow Farmhouse
Quality ***
Price ***
Addendum - Elevation in metres for Sennen Cove to Lamorna
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