Porthcothan to Newquay

Porthcothan to Newquay - Thursday 26th April 2012

Path Facts - Length: 11 miles, Ascent: 1750 feet

Much better weather today, a below average distance and moderate height gain. Probably a good job as I think various body parts were beginning to feel the cumulative strain.

The first landmark after a couple of miles was Bedruthan Steps, a familiar haunt from family holidays. Still a fantastic place.

A brief planned detour for views and photo-istic opportunities was prevented.

Then, well it was maybe early for a tea shop stop at Bedruthan, but... you know... it's part of the experience to sample as many tea shops as possible. We're also getting old and need to sit down more I think.

 

A bit further along the path, views down to Newquay and beyond open up, from looking at the map, presumably as far down as St. Agnes Head. Earlier, back at Trevose Head we reckon we could see down to St Ives Head. This sort of distance would be in keeping with previous long distance views.

Next down the coast is Mawgan Porth, the place where my family went on holiday every year. I think there's a photo somewhere of my mum pregnant with me there. My dad loved the place and always wanted to go back.

 

We had a brief rest here but it was a bit early for lunch.

The next stretch towards Watergate Bay was where my right knee really started hurting. It took a couple of weeks after this before I could walk without pain and my shin developed yellowy-brown bruising. It's good for you this exercise stuff, really!

Watergate Bay looked pretty impressive and we were getting a reasonable amount of sun.

 

For lunch we ended up at the Beach Hut Cafe right next to the beach at Watergate Bay. The food was fine but a tad expensive for our usual lunch standard.
 

On approach to Newquay, it begins to look like a huge, sprawling metropolis compared to what we'd experienced the last few days.

Then there's a section around Porth which seems to be one of the most unnecessary out and back detours around a not particularly interesting piece of headland.

Newquay, although probably never a utopian paradise, seemed pretty run down and deteriorated. A closed crazy gold course with cracked tarmac and weeds growing through it, a pretty rough element in the town... a bit of a downer really to end to leg. We visited the tourist info to check on buses with a view to getting out ASAP in the morning.

The hotel was ok and the room decent enough although despite being really close to the sea front the "view" left a bit to be desired.

Still, I'd checked out some cheaper B&B's on Google maps which appeared to be straddled between a kebab shop and car park in a very dodgy looking part of town. We could have done worse.

So, Leg 4. A total of 56.5 miles, 12,835 feet and we've done the equivalent of more than one Everest on the whole path so far! Leg 5 is already in the planning. This will be in September and we will start off from Newquay then stop at Perranporth, Portreath, Hayle, Zennor then Pendeen. This time a total of 55 miles, 9254 feet. Should be a bit easier... best start training anyway.

Info:

Accommodation – Hotel Tregella

Location *** the hotel is quite near the sea front, but our view wasn’t great
Room ***
Facilities ***
Noise ****
Food ***
Ambience **
Price *** £70 for the room

Food – Indian Summer

Quality ** below average
Price *** average

Beer
Cobra **

Postscript - Friday 27th April

There's usually a journey on a steamed up bus at the end of a leg and this was no exception. £7.50 back to Bude from Newquay. I need to check this out for next time but I think it's possible to get a day ticket to roam anywhere for about the same price. Parted company with Andy and stopped again at Tintagel for a few hours before the trip back.

Postscript 2

After approximately 20 years faithful use, my Karrimor rucksack is being "retired". Sound the bugle horns. Super duper new one will be on display in Leg5!