Path Facts - Length: Approx 13.3 miles, Ascent: 4429 feet!
Well! Note the ascent figure above. The cumulative height of the climbs on this section are about 20 ft higher than Ben Nevis. This day was not going to be a stroll on the beach!
We started 9.30 am-ish again. The B&B was busy for breakfast despite advertising vacancies here and elsewhere in Lynmouth. Would have expected August to be full everywhere. A short stop for some supplies in Lynmouth including new flannel as an upgrade from the J-cloth towel! Also bought a map of whole SW to check overall plan + progress.
There is a steep zigzag ascent from Lynmouth up to Lynton alongside the funicular railway. Then the path joins an old Victorian route to the Valley of Rocks with great views out to South Wales, steep drops and wild goats.
Castle Rock presents itself after a short distance then the path continues down a quiet toll road past Lee Abbey then out past Woody Bay. Glorious sunshine today and a few more walkers seemed to be evident, though no sign of the Germans today. There was a little more road walking but it was quiet and flat so the progress was good. Then the path leaves the road at a hairpin bend and carries on through woodland that was more open than yesterday. Some flies but they weren't much of a problem from now on.
The path ascends gradually until Heddon’s Cleave where it turns inland and drops right back down to sea level.
There were impressive views across to the other side of the cleave where ant sized walkers could be seen on the higher path. We took a slight detour along the valley bottom to Hunter’s Inn for cheese baguette’s + crisps + pint of orange juice and lemonade (enough detail?) It was nice at Hunter’s Inn. Lots of non-hardy walking soft types though, not like us! The local mascot peacock was too shy for a photo at first then obliged with a stretch/look around.
The ascent from the valley again is known in the lingo as directissimo and ended up slightly higher than before the cleave. It was now quite a hot day and quite exposed through much of this section. But great views back to where we had walked.
There were minor ups and down for the next few miles then a track opened up on the approach to Great Hangman. I think we were losing it slightly at this point and a couple of developing in-jokes turned into that wheezy, laughing gas delirium.
There was another steep descent before the ascent to Great Hangman, the high point of the whole SWCP at 318m (1043 ft). East from here was getting increasingly overcast so promised views inland to Exmoor weren’t great but coast views were excellent including sight of island of Lundy which can just be spotted on the horizon of the summit photo below.
The descent took us past Little Hangman and down into Combe Martin. Quite a lot of activity with noisy bikers + noisy commentary on the local kayak race. The sea front was packed with people at the kayak race so we headed off to the Pack O' Cards some way down the main street in Combe Martin. I think it was gone 6pm at arrival.
Local Interesting Fact!
As we found walking to the accommodation, Combe Martin is long for a village. It was believed that the street is the longest village street in England, but this is actually a myth. It was recently measured at around a mile and a half long. One possible origin for the myth is that Combe Martin has the Guinness World Record for the world's longest street party.
[Info from Wikipedia]
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The Pack O' Cards didn't initally look like the most promising place to stay from the location. But it turned out to be a great stop which was good as there wasn't too much enthusiasm for long jaunts in search of food /drink this evening after the walk.
Food, drink and general ambience at the Pack O' Cards were good + the room was all mod cons including DVD player and selection of films in the corridor. We watched "44 Inch Chest" with Ray Winstone which comes recommended as an amusing British gangster flick though there are more F's and C's then any film I think I've ever seen. The 18 cert is more for the swearing than violence which is minimal.
Info:
Accommodation – Pack O' Cards
Location *** A bit of a walk from the path into Combe Martin but not too bad
Room *****
Facilities ***** DVD player, good shower, comfortable bed
Noise ****
Food *****
Ambience ****
Price *** £70 for the room
www.packocards.co.uk/
Food – Pack O' Cards
Quality **** pasta / veggie burger - bit of a wait but ok
Price ***
Beer
Proper Job ***
Has the Tebbuttmeister shrunk in the wash of has a sign finally got the better of him (Woody Bay international departure lounge - see photos on picasa). Some other great shots as well including Castle Rock and the Lime kiln through trees. If my addition is worthy, Totals so far, Distance covered:35.8 miles (594.2 to go) and 9719 ft of ascent! Just about equivalent to a peak in the Austrian Tirol! - Green with envy, Good effort chaps, keep it up - SS.
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