Combe Martin to Ilfracombe

Combe Martin to Ilfracombe - Monday 9th August 2010

Path Facts - Length: Approx 5.3 miles, Ascent: 1804 feet

Short day today. No particular rush. We walked back towards the sea front from the Pack O’ Cards. Checked tourist info for tide times + found more SWCP local maps by a guy in Croyde which are great.

The SWCP Association guide really bigs up an alternative path to avoid a dangerous stretch of the A399. It involves crossing the beach/harbour at Watermouth but only if the tide is low. Hence the need to check tide times – but luckily we were about an hour off low tide so there was loads of time.

Interesting Fact!

A small dog operates the till in the outdoor shop at Combe Martin. No, really.

Most of this section of the walk is a little close to the main road but despite this there are some nice sections and it isn’t really that oppressive though not as picturesque as the last couple of days. We were geared up for extreme on foot sea crossings at Watermouth which turned out to be a bit of an anti-climax as the path only crosses the corner of the beach/harbour and is probably accessible at pretty much all times except high tide.

Views weren’t great today and the drizzle or mizzle or smist gradually increased during the walk though the consensus was that a variety of weather was preferable to constant blazing sunshine or constant mizzle. We passed through quite a promising looking campsite just West of Watermouth but it wasn’t cheap.

There’s a stretch of path that runs along side of the road again before Hele where the path turns off down to the sea front. Here, tea/hot chocolate was consumed under an outdoor canopy at the local seaside refreshments emporium whilst watching the rain. Another last bit of ascent up Hillsborough which overlooks Ilfracombe harbour though the view was curtailed through the Stygian gloom.

The path down was not well signposted but there were enough visual clues to keep on track and arrive at the harbour, probably before 2pm and conclude this particular leg of the SWCP. The SWCP Association guide book gives 40.4 miles for Minehead to Ilfracombe and the National Trail website gives it as 40.2 miles. There seem to be quite a lot of discrepancies in guide books and the signs on route. Plus we had an added detour on Day 1 in taking the rugged path to Porlock. My numbers currently add up to 41.1 miles which is probably more than accurate for West Country miles. Now you mention it, the West Country standard length measurement is:

"Arrr, 2000 dead seagull lengths = one half giant squid tentacle."

(where arrr is a constant)

Opinion is divided on whether the seagulls should be measured beak to foot or wing to wing. Hence a few inaccuracies here and there and the absence of a Somerset space station.

After a day’s walking in the rain we were basically going for the ‘drowned rat’ look and entered one of the many tea-rooms along St James Place [Link] in Ilfracombe to a mixture of incredulous, wide eyed & snooty looks for dripping on the doily’s. Nice tea shop though. Very good value jacket spud + excellent scones/deserts. The proprietor was born in Hitchin.

Ilfracombe is a bit run down in places and is full of the usual gift shops and new age tack. The tea shop had a kind of American Indian Dreamcatcher thang with sea shells hanging up in the loo which summarised all this in one handy item.

The run down parts of Ilfracombe were epitomised at the bus station where we had a 4pm-ish connection to take us back to the start. We met an old couple from Sussex who were also waiting for the 300 back to Lynton/Lynmouth so we were in the right place.

The Bus!

The bus arrived 10 mins late but it was a relief for it to appear otherwise we were stuck. A covered bus takes you to the half way back point at Lynmouth. There were rubbish views due to rain/steamed up windows. Impressive driving though, particularly the route down the steep hairpin from Lynton to Lynmouth.

There is a change of bus at Lynmouth & time for a quick tea break before getting on the open top bus to Minehead. At £3.50 for a single this is a great journey. The weather had cleared up at this point so there were excellent sea views, views out to the moors, Exmoor ponies…

The exhilarating views and fresh air were supplemented by the potential of leaves / branches from overhanging trees thrashing you in the face at 40 mph. It was necessary to duck on several occasions ... then there was the big one!

The front upper part of the bus was covered and I caught sight of a hefty branch whizzing towards us at head height. There was considerable thrashing whilst ducking beneath headrest height, then when I sat up Andy pointed out the 4ft branch lying across the passenger seats opposite.

It’s basically great that in this age of overbearing health and safety nannying that open top buses seem to have escaped regulation and allow the thrill of the danger element to be experienced through this unlikey medium. So, all of the above for £3.50! It’s the 300 that runs between Lynmouth and Minehead and it’s better than Alton Towers.

We arrived back in Minehead a bit before schedule at 6.40pm. After a short wee/chip break, set off for home about 7pm and got back about 10.30pm. Phase II is in the planning stage, but will probably take us as far as Bideford or Westward Ho!

Until then, enjoy the film!