Path Facts - Length: 12.8 miles, Ascent: 3200 feet
Stayed over last night in Poole. It was raining quite a lot but better weather was promised. Getting back to Lulworth Cove, our finish point for the last leg would involve a few logistical challenges. So... Breakfast at 8.30am which is the earliest it was available, bus into the centre of Poole, buy lunch as there would be no obvious eateries on route today, catch the 10.14am from Poole to Wool, then a 10.48am bus from Wool to Lulworth Cove, total coast of public transport £9.60 each (take breath).
This actually all went like clockwork. Remarkably the small mini bus that goes from Wool to L. Cove had just enough seats for the number of passengers. Note to anyone else attempting this journey, it only runs 3 times a day.
Walked down to the Cove from where the bus left off only to find that the usual route had been closed due to landslip. The alternative was not signposted so we basically backtracked up the road keeping as far right (East) as possible until a footpath up onto the cliff tops became visible. Probably didn't get going until after 11 am.
This first section is vertissimus up to the cliff top then right back down to almost sea level again, a fair taster for the rest of today. Note the ascent, 3200ft, the most we've done for quite a while.
The path to the fossil forest was also closed so there was another brief diversion into the edge of the Lulworth Range. This brings me to another logistical point. The range appears to be one of the most active and is open most weekends and school holidays. The route through the range is a fair part of today's walk and it is a huge detour to avoid it.
Weather was weird today. Quite warm in the sun but the Northerly wind was straight out of the arctic. The forecast had said that it was snowing in some parts of the UK.
Another vertiginous ascent at Mupe Bay.
Then another drop right back down to Arish Mell then right up two large ascents to Flower's Barrow hill fort where we stopped for lunch, mostly because the time was getting on having started at 11am and it had been challenging walking. Great views but freezing. Don all layers.
Lots of military signs and strategically abandoned tanks.
Erm, not quite sure what to say about this one. Maybe just wooarrgghhh.
The path drops height again around Worbarrow...
...then the path eventually leaves the military range at Kimmeridge.
Although there's not much at Kimmeridge it's a nice quiet spot and there is a car park and very modest sea life centre. We had been hoping (actually disproportionately bigging up) the possibility of at least a tea van. Almost missed it, but luckily there was one tucked away on the edge of the car park. One of those cups of tea that tastes like the best cup of tea you've ever had. Probably mostly due to the desire to stop, sit down and warm up than because it really was the absolute best tea in the world. But what I'm saying is: it was good tea + some subjective factors.
After the relatively modest ascent out of Kimmeridge the path stays the most level it's been today for a few miles then the looming cliff of Houns-tout approaches and St Aldhelm's Head (tomorrow's walk) begins to take more shape (as this head is quite a prominent feature on the coast it had been visible right back from Portland).
Houns-tout cliff was a bit of a sting in the tail today. A stiff ascent after being lulled into post-Kimmeridge flatness. And what goes up...
Instead of following the path where it almost doubles back we followed the road into Worth Matravers, about another mile. There's not much at Worth Matravers but it's a really nice place. The B&B (Chiltern Lodge) was great. With no restaurants within walking distance they offer a meal service as well.
Info
Accommodation - Chiltern Lodge
Location *** nice place but bit of a detour from the path
Room ****
Facilities **** No TV which was fine by me
Noise *****
Food ****
Ambience ****
Price *** £80 for the room.
Food – Chiltern Lodge
Quality ****
Price *** £13 each
Beer (at the Square & Compass) - HBA/Copper Ale *****
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