Portland Loop

Portland Loop - Saturday 22nd August 2015

Path Facts - Length: 13.2 miles, ascent 1093 ft

8am breakfast again. Bus to Ferry Bridge. These run every few minutes. Started walking 9.10am. Sunny.

The first stretch is across the causeway then there was a slight navigational issue again on
arriving at Portland. As we walked up on the East side the coast path signs were indicating the clockwise route round the island. So we had to cut across to the Chesil Beach side and pick up the path through Fortuneswell. Going clockwise round the island in opposition to the rest of the path would quite possibly break a fundamental law of the universe. The path rises up above the houses from the main street in Fortuneswell.

Had a very early stop at Quiddles Cafe in Chesil Cove for a cold drink before heading up the steep route to the plateau.

Once on top there is the classic view back across Chesil Beach. The path then goes through some dramatic quarries with great views all round. There were a couple of path closures / diversions.

After trying to go round the first diversion for no apparent reason we decided to just keep going for the second one. I'm not sure any more whether the warning signs are significant risks or just the
local authority covering itself legally, probably the latter. But the net effect is that you start ignoring the signs completely when there seems to be no obvious danger. I suppose there is always a hidden risk of collapse of a weakened stretch of path but you'd have to be damned unlucky. Portland is a mixed but interesting bag. There's some dramatic bits. There's also some none too aesthetically pleasing housing estates. But the mix and the history makes this a rewarding walk. Also great weather today.

Arrived at Portland Bill about 11am, a bit early for lunch. Had a cream tea anyway, just to keep going you know. There's only one place to eat here and the tea was lukewarm. Scones were ok.

Quick progress check...yep, that looks about right.

The East side of Portland is not quite as impressive and the path meanders away from the coast a fair bit.

But even the prison is interesting to see. This is the Young Offenders Institute and the
security looks like something from North Korea.

A working quarry...

Verne Citadel is another interesting place. Originally a Victorian Fort, built by prison labour, then a prison, more recently used for illegal immigrants awaiting deportation. There are epic sized earthen walls and a moat.

Not sure whether the Jailhouse Cafe marked on the map was still open but this was apparently in the grounds of the fort so could have been an interesting visit. By this time we didn't fancy more detours so we carried on down to the harbour and had a jacket spud in the cafe at Osprey Leisure Centre. Not perhaps the obvious place to stop but friendly and good food.

Back across the causeway and ended up running for the bus at Ferry Bridge. This was approx 4pm. Felt like a fairly easy day.

Pizza at The Stable in the PM. Good food but very noisy, echoey. Also warm & humid. Quick pint in forecourt outside the Red Lion after.


Info

Accommodation - Greenwood Guest House

Location ***

Room ***

Facilities ***

Noise ** the nearby road was busier than expected and with warm nights the windows needed to be open.

Food ****

Ambience ***

Price **** £66 for the room


Food – The Stable

Quality ****

Price ***


Beer - The Stable/The Red Lion

Seafarers
Black Sheep